I am just over three weeks in with exactly the same car, covering close to 900 miles in that time (below average mileage for me). I have to say, it is growing on me. I was initially disappointed with the interior, relative to my previous car (Skoda Yeti Elegance trim level = heated leather seats) bu...

Try to find someone with a flat trunk that wants to exchange parts for a raised one. It's just styrofoam and different sized cover plates. Not an option for me, I'm afraid - unless it was a reversible switch. At the end of the lease deal the car gets returned so I will need to be able to reinstate ...

So with a bit of free time at home this afternoon, I set to on adapting the boot floor. The plastic mouldings were easy to remove (10 screws in total) and all the safety equipment fits in the wheel well, with the polystyrene insert left in place. I then used the original false floor as an outline te...

I am just over 2 weeks in and seem to be averaging 58mpg; I have been trying to economically in stints but lose concentration and put my boot down from time to time. Am hoping for improvements as the car gets run in.

Yes, my plan is to temporarily remove the tools, puncture repair gunk, compressor etc from their respective polystyrene mouldings and store them in the (now shallower) wheel well. Black automotive carpet is available from eBay for £15 or so for a piece that would do the new false floor probably twic...

I've posted in another thread on the same topic recently. The moulded plastic sections under the false floor in the boot are easy to remove (10 screws in total). This leaves the boot considerably taller, but unfortunately the false floor does not perfectly fit the space when the mouldings are remove...

I did a bit of exploration yesterday evening. The polystyrene moulded tool holders will readily lift out (tools can be carried in much less space). The plastic mouldings under the boot floor which bring it up to level with the lip edge (I guess somewhere between 100 and 150mm) can be removed by undo...

The shape beam does appear to be fairly flat. It feels a bit of a 20th century solution but I think I will take a small roll of black tape with me and mask a piece of the headlight if necessary. The last time I used beam benders on a car, they left permanent marks on the headlight lenses.

Space for a second number on the chassis plate is blank - which I assume means no homologation for towing.

As I'm heading over to the continent for a road trip holiday in a few weeks, I'm hoping to find out how to adjust the headlights on my Niro 2. I've not found anything obvious in the manual (it has instructions on how to adjust beam alignment generally, but not shape). Nor can I see anything in the e...